Building the dualbox set up on Geeetech i3
These are the parts that come in the Colorpod dualbox add on set
It consists of:
500 gr gecko 3d powder
1 HP45 cartridge filled with clear fluid
2 plexiglass box cutout set
1 plexiglass bridge part
2 geared stepper motor
4 bottom axis support
4 box fixing plate
10 nylon M3 screws 5mm
1 servo modified for continuous rotation
1 resistor 100k on connector
1 resistor 820E on connector
1 dyneema thread 1200 mm
1 screw terminal
1 geeetech sync cable
1 endswitch conversion cable
1 5V regulator with cable
1 rubber band
2 ball bearing with outside diameter 16mm
1 stainless steel tube 210X20X2 mm
1 supply cable male
1 supply cable female
1 fuse holder with 2A fuse
2 M3 threaded rod 80mm
1 M4 threaded rod 96mm
1 metal spring
2 M2 screw 20mm
2 M2 screw 12mm
4 M2 nut
4 M2 washer
These are the parts that must be printed with a fdm printer.
They can be downloaded here
These are the first parts you need
remove all protective foil
Build the basic container using sticky tape.
Numbers are engraved on the outside of the container.
Later you can make the final unit with super glue.
In the borrom plate make 3 loops.
Here dental floss is used for it.
Drill thes holes halfway with a 4 mm drill to
to accomodate the countersunk m2 screws.
Cut 400 mm dynema thread. Make a loop on one side,
wind it 7 times around the axis of servo. Finally bring it thru the hole
in the axis.
You can now screw the servo on the bottom
plate. Glue the servo itself with double sided tape.
Put sticky tape on the other side. Let a rim of sticky tape stick out for about 1 mm.
Make diagonal cuts in the tape on the corners
Dip the tape edges in som sort of powder to stop the stickyness.
Here powdred sugar is used.
Taper M3 thread in 4 holes in the setup.
Put M3 screws in the 4 holes. You may put 2 washers
on each screw. Also put a M3 threaded rod in the box.
tie dynema thraeds of 260 mm to the other 2 holes in the axis.
tie a thread of 190 mm to one of the loops. This thread is for operating a microswitch
Now you can hang in the bottom. Thin copper wire can be used to get the
threads thru the small holes.
Tension the threads under the 3 screws so that it hangs flat on the
Put in a spring to pull the bottom down.
Roughen a small area of the plexiglass. Use a small drill or use sandpaper.
Glue the switch with hotmelt glue. The 190 mm thread goes thru a hole in the
plexiglass and next thru the tube on the switch.
Now you can connect it to fdm machine (z-stepper motor)
use these buttons to move it up or down a bit.
If it goes the wrong direction you can swap 2 wires on the plug.
If you have this circuit board you can change direction by
placing the jumpers 90 degrees rotated
on the feeder box connect the switch this way. The movement will stop when the movement
comes too high. It will stop working then. On the model box it must be connected toe the endswitch connection
of the fdm printer. If you have the circuit boards you can replace one of the jumpers by the switch connectors.
Attach the fixplates. Now you can screw it on the bottom plate of a fdm printer.
You need two identical of these boxes.
One is the feeder box the other is the model box.
Between the boxes you must place this
bridge part. Glue it only to the feeder box.
Drill 2.7mm holes int the bottomplate of the fdm printer. Taper m3 thread in it.
The two boxes are positioned so that the roller can roll over both of the boxes.
Mount the roller about 3 mm above the boxes
Use a threaded rod (M5) and the supplied ballbearings to mount the rod. You may need to put some tape around the bearings to make it a tight fit.
The roller tube is driven by a modified servo via a rubber band
In the dualbox setup the roller motor is operated by the fan driver output of the mainboard.
A cable (1) goes via a 5V voltage regulator(2) to the servo that drives the roller.
Fix the voltage regulator isolated from any metal part.
The cable that went to one of the Z motors (3) goes to the model box. Disconnected to other Z stepper motor.
The cable (4) that used to go to the extruder goes to the feeder box.
The endswitch on the model box is connected via a cable (5) to the wires that used to
go to Z-endswitch (6) .
In the connector position that is for the heated bed thermistor a 100k resistor must be put in. The extruder thermistor 1 is replaced by a 820 Ohm resistor.
For building up the colorpod check
for information on power and sync connections check this page:
Installing colorpod on the Geeetech I3